Yotsume tie-dye

Yotsume Dyed Cloth Workshop (Yotsumeso Menunoshya)

The Yotsume Dyed Cloth Workshop mainly uses traditional Japanese dyeing techniques such as "Katazome" and "Tsubokaki" to dye cloth and Japanese paper, selling garments, gloves, paper goods, and more made from these dyed cloth and paper.

Designer Mr. Ono Toyoichi is the head of the workshop, overseeing everything from design sketches to the dyeing process within the workshop.

Representative | Ono Toyoichi

 

The representative of Yotsume Dyed Cloth Workshop, Mr. Ono Toyoichi, was born in Kitahiroshima Town (formerly Toyohira Town) in the western part of Hiroshima Prefecture, into a family of dyers with a 130-year history. The family workshop specialized in flag dyeing and has hand-painted shrine curtains and temple screens.

To continue the family business, Mr. Ono studied graphic design at a design school and then trained for four years at a dyeing workshop of a family-run business. After completing his training, he joined the family workshop and established "Yotsume Dyed Cloth Workshop" as a new business, surpassing the traditional family business by starting sales of items such as stoles and gloves.

To focus on the activities of "Yotsume Dyed Cloth Workshop," the family entrusted the business to his younger brother, and Mr. Ono became independent. He established a new workshop in Okayama Prefecture and has been expanding the scope of activities.

Then, in 2025, marking the 10th anniversary of its founding, the workshop moved to its original location in Hiroshima and is now heading towards further creation in its hometown.

 

Traditional Techniques: Katazome and Tsubokaki

At Yotsume Dyed Cloth Workshop, traditional Japanese techniques called "Katazome" and "Tsubokaki" are mainly used to dye cloth and Japanese paper.

<Katazome (Stencil Dyeing)>

Katazome is a dyeing technique that uses stencils to dye cloth or Japanese paper.
The production process proceeds as follows.

First, the design is planned, and the design is traced onto the stencil paper. Intentionally leaving out lines can add flavor to the design.

Glue called "Sha" is pasted onto the finished stencil paper.

After the glue is stretched and dried, the excess parts of the stencil paper are cut out, and finally, the stencil paper is completed.

This is the process of using stencil paper to dye cloth or Japanese paper.
First, a paste called "neba" is made by mixing cooked rice, sake lees, salt, stone powder, and water. This paste is placed on the stencil paper, but the places where the paste is applied remain white without dyeing. Because the dyeing effect changes depending on the thickness of the paste, this step requires the skill of the craftsman.

If the patterns are continuous, the process of placing the paste is repeated while shifting the stencil paper.

After applying the paste, the cloth is dried, and then seawater diluted with seaweed is drawn. This is called "Jireirei," a preparation step to prevent the dye from bleeding.

Dye is made and spread onto the cloth using a brush.
If it is a single color, the dye is applied over the entire surface, but for multiple colors, the dye is applied color by color as if painting a picture. The parts visible as beige are where the paste was applied, so they do not get dyed.

After dyeing, the cloth is soaked in hot water, and the excess dye and paste are washed away. At this stage, the pattern first becomes clear and vivid.

After washing and drying, the work is completed, but depending on the design, the dyeing process may be repeated.

The parts where the resist paste was applied remain white after washing, but by applying the same color again, an interesting noren curtain was created.

<Tsutsugaki (Paste Resist Dyeing)>

Tsutsugaki is different from stencil dyeing; it is a technique where areas not to be dyed are drawn freehand with resist paste. Paste is applied to a triangular-shaped tube and placed on cloth or Japanese paper to draw shapes as desired.

The areas where the paste is applied act as a resist to dye, remaining white just like in stencil dyeing.

Protecting the Yotsume Worldview and Passing on Traditional Culture to Future Generations

Yotsume dyeing has so far developed many items by strengthening stencil dyeing, which is a traditional technique.

However, due to the nature of stencil dyeing requiring many processes, the range of items has expanded, making it difficult to deliver stable products to customers.

Therefore, the chosen approach is to entrust most of the dyeing, except for some products, to skilled artisans specializing in hand-paste resist dyeing (tenassen), a new form.

Hand-paste resist dyeing also uses stencil paper, but without using resist paste, it applies one color per stencil, layering them. This technique takes more time, producing three colors with three stencils, layered one by one for stability. Even so, by entrusting the dyeing process to trusted artisans, stable production volume and pricing were achieved.

For Yotsume dyeing, which values the traditional technique of stencil dyeing, outsourcing is not a simple choice. Still, to protect technology and culture, it was considered necessary to flexibly adapt the "form of craftsmanship" to the times.

In reality, dye shops inheriting the tradition are gradually closing due to changing demands, declining consumption, rising raw material costs, and lack of successors. Once the technique disappears, revival is difficult, and precious culture is lost.

Therefore, Yotsume dyeing chose a system to produce stably and deliver to more people by collaborating with experienced artisans. This choice is to cherish the worldview of the brand and connect traditional techniques to the next generation.

■ Hand-Paste Resist Dyeing Technique

Of course, this does not mean giving up stencil dyeing. For special items such as art pieces and some clothing, we still perform stencil dyeing ourselves, continuing to convey the charm and culture of this technique.

■ Items Using Stencil Dyeing (Left: Coin Purse / Right: Business Card Holder)

Yotsume Dyeing Product List